River Table Epoxy
Side table by Emiel Noorlander
Epoxy for river table
River tables are timelessly popular. With the right river table epoxy and a few clever steps, you can create a unique table yourself. Below you'll find everything you need: primer/seal coat, deep-pour epoxy, transparent and opaque dyes, metallic and fluorescent pigments, sanding and polishing agents, and a UV-resistant topcoat.
Quick choice: which system suits your project?
| Step | Goal | Recommended Products |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Primer / seal coat | Sealing wood, preventing air bubbles from pores | Universal epoxy • SAM Laminating Epoxy Resin (apply thinly, possibly 2 layers) |
| 2. River pouring (deep pour) | Thick, crystal clear casting with low exotherm | Epoxy Casting Resin Clear • Deep Cast • SAM Deep Epoxy Resin • SAM River & Art Epoxy Resin |
| 3. Colors & effects | Transparent or opaque, metallic swirl, glow/UV effect | Transparent dyes • Opaque epoxy color pastes • Metallic pigments • Fluorescent powder |
| 4. Finishing | Flat sanding, high-gloss or matte finish, extra UV protection | Abrasives & polishes • DD Lacquer Double UV Set (protective lacquer) |
Why seal? Unsealed wood "breathes." During a deep pour, air escapes and forms permanent bubbles in your river. One or two thin seal coats close the pores and ensure a smooth finish.
How to make a river table - in short
- Prepare the wood: sand to 120–180 grit, remove dust. Apply epoxy tape/mold and seal seams.
- Seal coat: Apply a thin layer of primer epoxy to all wood surfaces, including the river edges. Let it gel/cure according to TDS.
- Mixing & coloring: Measure resin and hardener precisely and mix thoroughly. Adding color: transparent for depth, opaque for a solid effect.
- Deep pour: pour slowly into the mold. Observe the maximum layer thickness per product; for larger volumes, work in multiple layers.
- Post-treatment: degas according to product advice (heat source/heat gun) and allow to harden dust-free.
- Flat sanding & polishing: build up in grit; choose gloss or satin
- Topcoat/UV: for extra protection and scratch resistance, use a UV-resistant varnish such as DD Lacquer Double UV Set
Color & effects
Transparent Dyes
- Maintains depth and light transmission; ideal for a "water look"
- Use low for subtle, high for intense. Always test a sample.
Opaque Color Pastes
- Create a solid, modern effect without a see-through
- Perfect for contrasting rivers or logo inlays
Metallic Pigments
- Give pearl/metallic swirl; stir gently for "marble"
- Beautiful in combination with transparent shades
Fluorescent Powder
- Charges in light and glows in the dark
- Subtly blend for a "wow" effect without overdoing it
Tips for a professional result
- → Temperature: work at 18–25°C and avoid draughts; this limits blushing and rippling.
- Layer thickness: Follow the TDS. Large volumes: Multiple layers with gel/curing time between them.
- → Mixing: thoroughly cover the edges and bottom; if necessary, pour into a second cup and mix again.
- → Safety: gloves, glasses and good ventilation are always included
- → Wood type: highly porous or resinous wood types seal extra well
Frequently Asked Questions
Which epoxy do I use for deep casting?
Choose a deep pour epoxy with a low exotherm and a long pot life, such as Deep Cast, Clear Epoxy Casting Resin, SAM Deep Epoxy Resin, or SAM River & Art Epoxy Resin.
Why a primer/seal coat first?
Sealing prevents air from escaping from the wood during deep pours, resulting in fewer air bubbles and a tighter river.
Transparent or opaque colors?
Transparent creates depth and a "water" effect; opaque looks modern and solid. Metallic creates vibrant swirls; fluorescent glows in the dark.
Do I need a UV topcoat?
Epoxy can yellow slightly over time. A UV-resistant varnish like DD Lacquer Double UV Set protects and improves scratch resistance.
Getting Started with Your River Table
Order your river table epoxy, colorants, and finish all at once. Not sure about layer thickness, pot life, or color? We're happy to help.