Guide: Casting a candle from fruit with a silicone mould

Guide: Casting a candle from fruit with a silicone mould

In this guide you will learn step by step how to make a silicone mould from a real apple, and how to then use that mould to cast a candle. The technique works with almost any fruit or object and is suitable for both beginners and advanced makers.

📄 Download this guide as a PDF

What will you make?

You will make a flexible casting mould from an apple using soft addition cure moulding rubber. The mould captures every detail of the fruit, including the gloss and the imperfections of the skin. You then cast a candle of paraffin or candle wax into the mould, with a wick through the centre.

Because the mould is made from soft silicone, you can easily remove the cast product without damaging the shape. The silicone mould is reusable for dozens of candles, soaps or cast wax figures.

💡 Suitable for: candles, soap, cast wax and plaster. The cured mould stays flexible and dimensionally stable and is reusable for dozens of casting cycles.

Required materials

🧰 Arrange yourself

  • An apple or other fruit as a model
  • Plasticine or modelling clay to fix the model in place
  • A wick for the candle
  • Paraffin or candle wax to cast
  • A flat, level surface

Product specifications: Wacker CENUSIL Pink 10

PropertyValue
Mixing ratio1 to 1 by weight (A to B)
Pot lifeabout 40 minutes
Curing timetack free after about 4 hours, fully cured after about 10 hours
Temperature resistanceup to about 200 degrees Celsius, briefly higher
Suitable forcandles, soap, cast wax, plaster
Release agent needed?not needed on smooth models such as fruit

Preparation

Before you pour the silicone, it is important that the model is clean. The mould picks up every small detail, so remove dirt, dust and imperfections that you do not want to see in the final result. The glossy parts of the apple also return glossy in the mould, the matte parts stay matte.

With an apple or other smooth fruit no release agent is needed. If you use a porous model, for example wood, stone or plaster, apply a release spray or sealer beforehand. Set out all materials before you start, because after mixing you have limited working time.

⚠️ Mind the pot life: Pink 10 has a working time of about 40 minutes. After this the silicone becomes too thick to pour bubble free. Therefore only weigh and mix once your model is fully ready.

Step by step guide

Clean and check the model

Clean the apple thoroughly and dry it. Remove stickers, dirt and dust. Check that the surface is free of imperfections you do not want to reproduce. With smooth fruit no release agent is needed.

A clean apple as a model for the silicone mould
Fig. 1 – The original, a clean apple as a model

Fix the model with plasticine

Roll a small ball of plasticine and press it flat into a thin disc. Place this disc in the centre of a mixing cup. Press the apple firmly onto the plasticine so that no silicone can run underneath later and the model sits firmly on the bottom.

💡 Tip: Place the mixing cup on a level surface. This keeps the top of your mould straight and the candle stands stable later.
A thin layer of plasticine in the centre of a mixing cup
Fig. 2 – A thin layer of plasticine in the centre of a mixing cup

Weigh and mix the silicone

Weigh the A component and the B component in equal parts, mixing ratio 1 to 1 by weight. Mix both components very well with a stir stick, going along all the edges and corners of the cup so that the silicone is evenly mixed everywhere.

💡 Tip: Pour the mixed material into a second cup if needed and stir again. This prevents unmixed silicone from staying behind on the wall. A vacuum pump is not required but improves mould quality.
The apple fixed and sealed with plasticine in the mixing cup
Fig. 3 – The original, fixed and sealed with plasticine

Pour the silicone in a thin stream

Pour the silicone in a thin stream and from one point into the cup. Through the fall air bubbles get the chance to escape, and air is pushed ahead of the silicone instead of being trapped. Keep pouring until the apple is no longer visible, but the stem still just sticks out.

💡 Tip: For a guaranteed bubble free contact layer you can first brush a thin layer of silicone over the model, and then fill the cup further.
Silicone is poured into the mixing cup in a thin stream
Fig. 4 – Pour the silicone in a thin stream and from one point

Let the silicone cure

Let the silicone cure undisturbed. Pink 10 is tack free after about 4 hours and fully cured after about 10 hours. Do not move the cup during curing and keep it dust free.

The mixing cup completely filled with silicone, the stem still sticks out
Fig. 5 – The apple is no longer visible, the stem still sticks out

Demould the mould

After curing, remove the mixing cup and carefully take the apple out of the silicone. Trim the edge of the mould neatly. Where the stem was, there is now a hole that you will use later for the wick.

The cured silicone mould after removing the apple
Fig. 5 – The cured mould, ready to demould

Set the wick and cast the candle

Push a wick through the hole in the mould. Then fill the mould with melted paraffin or candle wax. Let the wax cool sufficiently. Due to shrinkage a small dip can form around the wick, which you simply top up with a little extra wax.

The wick is pushed through the hole and the mould is ready to cast
Fig. 6 – The wick is set and the mould is ready to cast
End result, candles in the shape of an apple and an owl cast in home made silicone moulds

End result: candles in the shape of an apple, cast in a home made silicone mould. With the same technique you make moulds of nuts, shells, toys and other objects.

Special notes

  • Do not expose the mould for long periods to temperatures below minus 40 degrees Celsius or above plus 200 degrees Celsius.
  • You can use all kinds of objects as a model, such as toys, nuts, stones and shells.
  • Porous materials such as paper, fabric, wood or untreated plaster can stick, in that case use a release spray or sealer.
  • Always pour in a thin stream from one point to avoid air entrapment.
  • A vacuum pump is not mandatory but improves the detail reproduction of the mould.

Storage

Uncured components

Store the A component and the B component well sealed between 10 and 25 degrees Celsius, away from direct sunlight. Close the packaging immediately after use to prevent contamination and thickening. With correct storage the components stay usable for a long time.

Cured mould

Store the cured mould in a dark, dry space between 10 and 25 degrees Celsius with low humidity. Store the mould flat and without heavy objects on top, so that the shape is preserved.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a release agent for an apple?

No. On smooth, non porous fruit such as an apple the silicone does not bond and a release agent is unnecessary. Only on porous models such as wood, stone or untreated plaster is a release spray or sealer needed.

Which silicone is suitable for candles?

A soft addition cure moulding rubber such as Pink 10 is ideal for candles, because the mould stays flexible and withstands the temperature of melted wax well. The soft Shore A10 hardness makes demoulding easy.

How do I prevent air bubbles in the mould?

Pour in a thin stream from one point, so that air is pushed ahead of the silicone. For extra certainty you first brush a thin contact layer onto the model and then fill further. A vacuum pump improves the result further.

How often can I use the mould?

A well maintained silicone mould lasts dozens of casting cycles. Clean the mould after use and store it flat in a dry space. Refills of the silicone are available at Silicones and More.

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